Cinque Terre: Climb (almost) Every Mountain

Leave it to the French. They did their best to dissuade me.

"Turn back!  S'il vous plait! The bebes can not-a climb le mountain, mon cherie."

(I paraphrase)

Maybe the good Monsieur forgot.  Perhaps June 6 1944 escapes his memory.  But Americans don't retreat. We don't turn back.  We march on.

Even when things get tres difficile. *Cue the Rocky theme song*

And so we conquered the mountain- my entourage and I.

The trail linking Monterosso al Mare to the pastel-painted harbor of Vernazza loomed in towering ascent.  Like it was straight up, vertical.  (Hawaii's Koko Head. But worse.)

Through the terraced vineyards we climbed.  Steps stretched before us, scaling the skyline. To the mountain top, together, we hiked. Colson. Kincaid. Eowyn and I.

Of course, it was rigorous and steep and Colson's legs were often too short to reach. Of course, it was hard. Tres difficile.  

But it was good.

Gratifying even. There is something so guttural, so satisfying about a hike that demands more than you believe you can give. This was such a hike.

Best of all: My kids amazed themselves. (and the French)

In Cinque Terre (Five Lands) - Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore- five villages ramble with a rustic romance along the Italian Riveria in the Ligurian region, linked by legend and lover's trails.

There, serpentine paths  etched into storied mountains laced with grape vines, keep secrets of old pirate lore from 15th century days.

But, in recent times, these ancient fishing villages have gone glamorous under tourist-fame's gaze.  Unfiltered beauty endures, though. Not tarnished, wild, and raw.

It's a hiker's dream.

Our charming agriturismo U'Liveto nel Parco offered unrivaled views and frothy cappuccinos to make you swoon. Kiwi jelly from family trees smothered fresh croissants at breakfast in this little slice of heaven.

And when Eowyn requested to assist in making fresh-squeezed lemonade, with lemons harvested by her hand, they obliged. Because she is Eowyn. And her eyes sparkle.  

This trip was perfect. Not because everything was perfect. (Um, I was traveling with children after-all).  But, we did swim in the Mediterranean and eat seafood freshly caught and climb a rugged mountain to prove the French wrong.

And that was close enough to perfection for me.  

Room with a view

My hiking posse with Vernazza in view

Beautiful Vernazza

With her fresh squeezed lemonade

The Mediterranean dazzles